The804.com–Richmond VA Real Estate Blog

Random Restaurant Notes

• From the makers of RVABlogs and RVANews, new Richmond restaurant site RVAEats.com is getting ready to launch (see press release  RVAEats.com- All Restaurants Invited | Get On The Menu of Richmond’s New Restaurant Web Site!)  Having a google map navigation alone will make this site better than most existing online options in Richmond.  The other day I wrote about the dysfunction of Media General, a company with a market capitalization of $373 Million (Style’s owner, Landmark Communications, is just as big) . In terms of the RVA family, I’m amazed that this tiny guerilla outfit continually churns out better web products with nowhere near that kind of capital (I mean, Jesus, their principals have a grocery budget of $36 per week.  FOR TWO PEOPLE!  That’s getting close to federal poverty thresholds).  
• So, I tried Moshi Moshi (3321 W Cary St, Carytown) a couple of weeks ago.  First impression: As our waitress told us, MM is trying to be a higher end version of Sumo San (one of my favorite Japanese restaurants).   Certainly, the ambiance was swankier (dined upstairs…the downstairs lounge with the fireplace looked cozy; can’t believe this was a Rolly Polly).  The food was comparable to Sumo San, but the prices were slightly higher.  I ordered the Chicken teriyaki, and it was very good but smallish.  They had a yummy shrimp tempura-gyoza appetizer combo, but again pricey.  I’ll have to try it a couple more times, but right now, I’m not feeling the value proposition.  My gut instinct seems to have been validated by the Livejournal foodies. With so many sushi choices in the West of the Boulevard/Fan region (Carytown Sushi, Nara, Sticky Rice, the new Sushi Ninja, and old standby Akida), it’ll be interesting to see whether Moshi Moshi finds a niche.
• In my never ending quest for good NY Style slices, I gave Pizza Express (8936 Quioccasin Rd, near Regency) a try this week.  Run by FBI (Full Blooded Italians), I thought the slices were kind of small but balanced out by above-average taste and low prices.  Their sauce leans on the sweet side, and I would definitely recommend them over the chains (I think they deliver).
• The lunch buffet at New India in Lakeside is pretty good.  Nothing spectacular, but a decent value.  Run by FBI (Full Blooded Indians), the meat dishes are the usual suspects of curry and tandoori chicken and lots of traditional sides to get you full.  Though I really liked LA Grill, this will be a nice option for that neighborhood.  Speaking of Lakeside, in vino veritas, a food blog I respect, has been going ga-ga over Zed’s Cafe as of late.  I must admit that I’ve only eaten their once for lunch and coffee, so I can’t give you my honest opinion.  It definitely has a crunchy, New Age vibe to it.  I respect them for using local ingredients.
• I was saddened to see that Maui Wowi in Innsbrook closed.  This was by far the best local chain coffee shop in terms of quality (Kona, not as bitter as Starbucks) and pastries (the Hawaiian banana nut bread was off the chain).   They even had wifi…This is one of those “cursed locations” (a nice bakery used to be there) where maybe the rent is too high to sustain a business.  I discovered this fact as I made my bi-weekly run to Firehouse subs.  Along with Jersey Mike’s, Firehouse is my favorite go-to chain sub (roast beef is what I order).  As an ex-EMT, I like the fact the walls are decorated with pictures of Henrico fire.  Anyways, as I was making my way to Firehouse, I spotted a new restaurant a couple of doors down from it called Foster’s Grille : Home Of The Charburger.  Having recently written a column about my favorite Richmond hamburgers, I couldn’t pass that up!  What I got from Foster’s was a pretty nice chargrilled hamburger (including the coke and fries at one price was a nice touch).  Did it make my list, however?  Yeah, not really.  I wasn’t too keen with the bun as it was cold/refrigerated (that is a major pet peeve of mine).  In the end, it’s a nice value and change of pace from 5 Guys or Big Al’s (my favorite hamburger in Innsbrook).  The giant stock car frame on the ceiling was most impressive.
• Yeah, meatloaf is definitely the best dish at Popkins…probably, the best in town.
• City Limits is quickly becoming a favorite happy hour spot (2 buck bottles of liquid bread).  I just can’t get over this is the old Potter’s Pub.  If you listen really carefully, you can still hear John Smalls singing the Unicorn song.    Lots of ghosts in that building. 
• Speaking of boozing, I have published a special Irish Bars page for the Good Life just in time for St Patrick’s Day.  As I always say, if you want a watch, go Swiss…if you want a car, go Japanese…if you want to get pissed, go Irish!
• Final thought, drop your mouse, shut down the computer (oh yeah, I guess you can’t do that without the mouse), grab your keys, drive to 8 1/2 on Strawberry St, order the chocolate ricotta cake, drive home, finish it, then write in the comment field how thankful you are for the tip.

I recently had a pleasant lunch at 88 Garden (6135 Midlothian Turnpike (804) 231-5388).  88 (named after the 1988 Olympics in Seoul) is one of only two Korean restaurants in the entire area (the other being Young Bin Kwon (VIP) located a little further west on Midlothian).  From the outside, the place looks totally unassuming, almost dumpy (my favorite kind of restaurant).  It’s been a while since I’ve eaten there, and I was pleasantly surprised to see that they have completely renovated/remodeled the entire interior.

I went ahead and ordered the $9.95 lunch box since it was a sampler: (1) Bul gogi–Garlicky grilled beef (2) Korean fried chicken wings (this dish recently got a lot of love by the NY Times) (3) Mandoo dumplings which is essentially Korean gyoza (4) Vegetable tempura (5) Sticky rice (6) Ban-Chan (mini appetizers including two kinds of kimchee, soybeans, fishcake, etc).  Served in a bento box, I was totally satisfied with my meal especially enjoying the wings which were drizzled in a super tasty, sweet n salty soy sauce.  I also pilfered some of my dining compatriot’s spicy seafood tofu soup (”soon dooboo” is usually the bellwether dish that determines the worthiness of a Korean restaurant.  Sort of like Pho for Vietnamese.  Theirs is above average).  Damn, why don’t I go here more often?  Location, I suppose…

The clientele of 88 is dominated by local Korean immigrants (again, my favorite kind of restaurant).  There are even back rooms for private Karoake (like in Lost in Translation).  I had a brief fantasy of singing What’s so Funny about Peace, Love and Understanding?

The latest NBC12 Restaurant Report shines its glaring spotlight on one of Richmond’s signature restaurants, Can Can.

This is Can Can’s fourth appearance on the critical list. The Carytown French brasserie was first featured on the Restaurant Report in July of 2006. Now, over a year and a half later, an inspector noted 6 critical violations during his last inspection. Among them, an employee observed handling raw, then ready to eat foods without changing gloves. A manager declined our request for an on camera interview, but tells us by phone that she’s more than confident in her restaurant and the job they’re doing, and that they’re using these criticisms to make it better. 

Kudos to NBC12 for this series.  Can Can is a favorite of mine (on my personal Top 50).  However, this kind of report really makes me pause.  I’m more bothered that this is their fourth appearance on the critical list (as opposed to a one time freak occurrence).  I don’t care how nice the tin ceiling is…Basic hygiene is a must must.

• See Full Health Inspector Report 
• See Health Department Restaurant Reports to lookup any restaurant in town

I’m still getting comments around I post made way back in November regarding my favorite Richmond hot dogs.

All of the commenters are raving about this nice little hot dog stand in the heart of darkness (ie, Far West End).  As I’ve responded, I believe Joey’s Hotdogs (10400 Ridgefield Pkwy (inside the Exxon)) is the “the most underrated “restaurant” in Richmond right now.”  Here’s what the Joeyheads have to say…

I am suprised that you didn’t put Joey’s at #1. I know, I know - it is based on your taste. I was brought up in Northern NY and have lived in Syracuse (Hydes Hot Dogs), Buffalo (Ted’s) and in Oswego(Rudy’s). You have to start off with a great dog and I just don’t see that at Melito’s. Joey’s has natural casing snappy reds that are right on target for the perfect dog. His Chili is also a Greek sauce which is also authentic to what I find in Upstate NY. Anyways food for thought - right? To me - there’s nothing better than to get 3 “All the way” at Joey’s. 
Comment by DJ Smith

Joey’s Hotdogs are #1
I have eaten at Melito’s, specifically for their hotdogs for a long, long time. For this gastronome, there isn’t even a comparison. The dogs at Joey’s are true dogs with a proper natural casing(I believe they are specially made from Hormel), the chili is far superior (and quite different) from that of Melito’s. Further, it is the water steaming that gives the simple bun that “squishiness”.
Having eaten two chili dogs at Melito’s last Friday night, and having just eaten four dogs all the way at Joey’s, bar none I’ll take Joey’s anyday. Now if you to make a category for homemade potato chips with cheese sauce, you can’t touch Melito’s! 
Comment by BPhillips

I had no idea there were other dog junkies/connousseirs in Richmond, a town which has been void of a good dog for many years, since Angelos closed. However there’s no doubt in my mind that Joeys in #1 in Richmond, and then some. It’s a dog I’ve been eating for over 30 years. I grew up in VA beach and found a dog “Jimmies” in the late 70’s that I consider the best dog I’ve ever had. Well, it turns out that Jimmy learn his trade from Joeys dad, Tony, in the 60’s. (About 5 years ago, I started eating at Joeys dads original place.)
I travel a great deal with my job, and no matter where I go, I search to find the local dog, always in search of a great dog. My travels, both work and pleasure, have also included many places around the world, and so far Joeys slogan, “Best dog on the planet” holds up in my book.
As for other dogs nearby and how they stack up, Melito’s dogs fall short of Joeys for three key reasons, the chilli, which I find bland, the non snap dog, and the size of the dog, a touch too big in my opinion, too big to offer the perfect bite which includes all the classic ingredients mustard, chilli onions. I’ve not tried Rays dog house but will give it a try.
Yes, it’s very much “to each their own” who has the best dog in town, but take it from someone who has been at the quest for many years, Joey has the best dogs in town. 
Comment by kent

When there is this much passionate evangelism for a restaurant, you must take it very seriously.  Eventually, I predict a Richmond wide cult following for this undiscovered gem.  You heard it here first!

For those who’ve never been, here is a  quick Joey’s primer:

• Only one item on the menu: Hot Dog (sodas and ice cream floats for drink)…Less is definitely more by concentrating excellence on one item.
• Read the press clippings around the counter.  As you can also see by the comments, Joey’s comes from a royal lineage of hot dog purveyors.
• Hot Dog all the way means onion, chili, and mustard (there is no relish).  
• Hot dogs are electric griddled like Gray Papaya’s.  The bun is steamed so it’s nice and spongey.  The natural casing dogs snap.
• The chili is really, really good.  Sort of a dryish Texas style (ie no beans).
• Because it sits in a gas station convenience store, you can buy potato chips and dessert (ie Snickers bars) from the store.  Also, if you need cell phone accessories with your hot dog, you’re covered.

 

After having my appetite whetted by the teaser article Oddball Cuisine, I went ahead and bought the current issue of Richmond Magazine (score one point for their business strategy of not putting anything online).  Boy, huge disappointment.  So the article starts off well enough… Russian bread at European Deli, Beef tongue tacos at Happy Mart, Naan at Shish Kabob (hmmm…), Vietnamese soda, a vegetarian Reuben at Harrison St, and then the article abruptly ends segueing into their copy-paste Dining Guide.  That’s it?!  Four measly pages, 90% of it being photos (not even one page of full copy).  And you pick “Naan” as your “wild side” Middle East entry (that’s the moral equivalent of choosing white rice to represent Chinese cuisine).  Now, I realize Richmond’s not the most diverse town (as represented by another article in the issue entitled “a Taxonomy of Richmonders”), but man, this article could have been so much more.   For example,  we’ve had quite a few Indian markets open up recently (patterning the trend of the overall population).  I would have loved a deep dive into the secrets of their cuisine (the differences between Southern vs Northern and such).  What about Armenian at Bakery Art? What are those delicacies inside the 8 1/2 deli refrigerator?  Ikea for Swedish food?  Any Bosnian surprises at 2M?   Thai?  Cambodian?  Indonesian?  Korean (Annandale roadtrip, anyone, for 24 hour tofu soup)?  Variations between South America, Central America, Caribbean, and Mexican?  Any African choices?

Since it’s the annual “Source Book”, the issue is still definitely worth buying but not for this article.

Fresh off this discussion of blogger feedback (see comments section from 2 posts ago), lo and behold, Richmond.com debuts its new restaurant writer (I think?) Josh Katz as he tackles the most celebrated and misunderstood restaurant in Richmond, Mama Zu:

With Mamma ‘Zu, you go to feel like crap. In all my years, I have never been treated as consistently awful as I have dining at Mamma ‘Zu, and I’ve been to Morocco. Everything, from the dank, subterranean inner ambience (great when trying to read the menu board, let me tell you) to the beyond-brusque attending service to their staunch refusal of every major credit card save American Express, works to make you feel glum….(he goes on to praise the food)…It’s my favorite Richmond restaurant in terms of food quality, hands down, and so I (and many, many others) will put up with a little abuse in order to eat there.

The subsequent reader retorts of this review really made me chuckle, basically, saying in a nutshell, “newbie, that restaurant has been soo vetted already!”  Nevertheless, it was refreshing to see Richmond.com finally get critical on a restaurant (albeit, the wrong one).  Of the “big 4″ local media (TD, Style, Rich Mag being the other three), Richmond.com has always been the most Pollyanna, Chamber of Commerce (ie, more “Short Pump Life” than “Village Voice”).  As Bookstore Piet of Read, Drink, & Be Merry puts it,

I used to like Richmond.com’s restaurant section many years ago until I had a creeping suspicion that it was much more advertisement than restaurant review. Now I just use it as a quick way to get menus and websites of potential dinner spots.

Back to the restaurant, I’d like to challenge this myth of Mama Zu and “bad service.”  I’ve always been treated with prompt service and respect at Zu’s (of course, you’ve got to give respect to receive it).   Yeah, the service isn’t that phony, syrupy stuff, but I come to eat not small talk and be called “sugar.”  I love the Richmond.com reader who compares the waitstaff to an “orchestra.” (yeah, an orchestra that serves the food equivalent of Beethoven’s Ninth). Zu’s feels like a great European or Caribbean restaurant (never been to Morocco) where the soon come attitude is “take your time and enjoy the food and your company.” (I’m reminded of the refrain in Radiohead’s The Tourist, “Hey man, slow down. slow down.”).  

And, why even complain about the cash policy (keeps the prices lower)? Just bring cash.

Last thing, owner Ed Vasaio (I don’t know him well) seems to be what Israelis call a “sabras”  (prickly fruit with soft center).  That guy is always quietly helping the local community (from celebrity cooking at Positive Vibe to employing O-Hill misfit Donnie Corker…does his W-2 read “Dirtwoman”?).  This weekend, he’s once again sponsoring the Richmond Moving Co-Op’s 5th Italian Film and Food Festival at The Firehouse Theatre where great Italian films will be served with great Italian food.  Grazie, maestro.